KONGUR SOUTH FACE EXPEDITION
(53-day variant Bishkek – Bishkek, first ascent from South)
Kongur (7719 m) is the highest peak of the Kun-Lun Mountains. The first and only one successful ascent from the South-West was done by the British team of Chris Bonington in 1981. After their reconnaissance of the northern and western sides of the Kongur Massif they reached the summit along the West Ridge via the Kongur Col. After that several expeditions tried to repeat the Bonington Route but without any success.
The 1981 Japanese expedition tried to climb Kongur from the North and along the East Ridge but their attempts ended in tragedy.
Until now the South Face of Kongur has not only been climbed, it has not even been explored. None of climbers has been near the South Face and nobody has had good photos of that side of Kongur.
In 1996 Dan Waugh from the USA did a solo trek around Kongur and Muztagh-Ata and tried to explore that region. Unfortunately, he was far enough from the Kongur South Face. In summer 2000 a strong Russian team of Andrey Lebedev and Anton Chkhetiani did a hard trek in that area and got nice photos of the Kongur South Face. After that Dan Waugh has brought forward a very interesting idea of the exploration and climb of the South Face.
Period of the programme: June – September
Approximate variant of the programme:
day 1 – arrival in Bishkek (in the morning); drive to Tash-Rabat, 10-12 hours; yurt accommodation
day 2 – drive to the Torugart Pass, 3-4 hours; crossing the Kyrgyzstan-China border; drive to Kashgar, 3 hours; hotel accommodation
day 3 – shopping in Kashgar; drive to the trek start point
day 4/48 – trek with pack-animals and local porters to the place of Base Camp on the Qimgan Glacier (about 4000 m); reconnaissance, acclimatization and the first ascent of the unclimbed South Face of Kongur (7719 m); coming back to the highway (45 days)
day 49 – drive to Kashgar; hotel accommodation
day 50 – Kashgar city tour
day 51 – drive to the Torugart Pass; crossing the China-Kyrgyzstan border; drive to Tash-Rabat; yurt accommodation
day 52 – drive to Bishkek; hotel accommodation
day 53 – transfer hotel – airport; departure from Bishkek
Services and expenses included in the programme price:
- All necessary permits and formalities for Kyrgyzstan and China: Kyrgyz and Chinese visa invitations, registration in Kyrgyzstan, all necessary fees and charges for Xinjiang including a peak registration fee, an administrative fee, highway and conservation charges, etc
- Bus/jeep for the transportation Bishkek – Kashgar – trek start point and back and special payment for crossing the Kyrgyzstan-China border with bus/jeep
- Pack-animals and local porters for the luggage transportation trek start point – Qimgan Base Camp and back
- Transfer hotel – airport in Bishkek
- Yurt accommodation at Tash-Rabat for 2 nights
- Hotel accommodation (double rooms) in Bishkek for 1 night
- Hotel accommodation (double rooms) in Kashgar for 3 nights
- City tour in Kashgar for 1 day
- Base camp equipment: a big mess tent, tables, stools, a mess kit, gas stoves and a cooking set
- Meals in Kyrgyzstan: 2 breakfasts, 2 lunches, 2 dinners
- Meals in Kashgar: 3 breakfasts
- Meals at Base Camp and during the trek for 40 days
- Chinese cook for cooking in the Base Camp
- Chinese liaison officer-interpreter
- Expedition manager of Fii activ