KOSKULAK

kun lunKOSKULAK PEAK EXPEDITION 
(24- and 20-day variants, Normal Route from West)

Koskulak Peak (7028 m) is located not far from Muztagh-Ata. The easiest climbing routes are from the West along the snow slopes that are very similar to the western slopes of Muztagh-Ata.

In 2005 our International Koskulak Expedition tried to climb Koskulak Peak but we could not reach the summit because of bad weather. The first ascent of Koskulak Peak was done by a Russian team of M. Volkov along the North-West Ridge on 12.08.2005. Two Russians – A. Petrov and V. Odokhovskiy – climbed Koskulak along the South-West Ridge on 19.08.2005. Then the team of M. Volkov summited Koskulak along the very difficult North Ridge on 27.08.2005. Also in August 2005 two Russian climbers – V. Shamalo and A. Gorbatenkov – successfully climbed the North Wall of Koskulak.

Period of the programme: June – September

Programme for 24 days from Bishkek to Bishkek: 
day 1 – arrival in Bishkek (in the morning); drive to Tash-Rabat, 10-12 hours; yurt accommodation; (L, D)
day 2 – drive to the Torugart Pass, 3-4 hours; crossing the Kyrgyzstan-China border; drive to Kashgar, 3 hours; night at a hotel; (B)
day 3 – drive to Karakul Lake, Subashi and then to the trek start point (~ 8-10 km off road), 6-7 hours; walk with pack-animals to the Koskulak Base Camp (~ 4500 m), 1-2 hours; (B, L, D)
day 4 – acclimatization and reconnaissance of the area; (B, L, D)
day 5 – acclimatization and reconnaissance of the area; (B, L, D)
day 6 – Base Camp – Camp 1 (~ 5800-5900 m); (B)
day 7 – Camp 1 – Base Camp; (L, D)
day 8 – rest day; (B, L, D)
day 9 – Base Camp – Camp 1; (B)
day 10 – Camp 1 – Camp 2 (~ 6400 m)
day 11 – Camp 2 – Base Camp; (L, D)
day 12 – rest day; (B, L, D)
day 13 – rest day; (B, L, D)
day 14 – Base Camp – Camp 1; (B)
day 15 – Camp 1 – Camp 2
day 16 – Camp 2 – summit of Koskulak Peak (7028 m) – Camp 2
day 17 – Camp 2 – Base Camp; (L, D)
day 18 – reserve day for the bad weather; (B, L, D)
day 19 – reserve day for the bad weather; (B, L, D)
day 20 – walk with pack-animals and then drive to Kashgar; night at the hotel; (B)
day 21 – rest and sightseeing in Kashgar; night at the hotel; (B)
day 22 – drive to the Torugart Pass; crossing the China-Kyrgyzstan border; drive to Tash-Rabat; yurt accommodation; (B, D)
day 23 – drive to Bishkek; night at a hotel; (B, L)
day 24 – transfer hotel – airport; departure from Bishkek (in the morning)

Services and expenses included in the programme price: 
– All necessary permits and formalities for Kyrgyzstan and China: invitations for Kyrgyz and Chinese visas, registration in Kyrgyzstan, all necessary fees and charges for Xinjiang including a peak registration fee for Koskulak, an administrative fee, highway and conservation charges, an ecological fee, a payment for a general liaison officer of China Xinjiang Mountaineering Association (CXMA), etc
– Bus / jeep for the transportation Bishkek – Kashgar – trek start point and back and special payment for crossing the Kyrgyzstan-China border with bus / jeep
– Pack-animals for the luggage transportation trek start point – Koskulak Base Camp and back (40 kg of luggage per person)
– Transfer hotel – airport in Bishkek
– Yurt accommodation at Tash-Rabat for 2 nights
– Hotel accommodation (single and double rooms) in Bishkek for 1 night
– Hotel accommodation (single and double rooms) in Kashgar for 3 nights
– Base camp equipment: a big mess tent, tables, stools, a mess kit, gas stoves and a cooking set
– Meals in Kyrgyzstan: 2 breakfasts (B), 2 lunches (L), 2 dinners (D)
– Meals in Kashgar: 3 breakfasts (B)
– Meals at Base Camp: 11 breakfasts (B), 11 lunches (L), 11 dinners (D)
– Chinese cook for cooking in Base Camp
– Chinese liaison officer-interpreter
– Expedition manager of Fii Activ (optionally)

Programme for 20 days from Kashgar to Kashgar: 
day 1 – arrival in Kashgar; transfer airport – hotel; night at a hotel
day 2 – drive to Karakul Lake, Subashi and then to the trek start point (~ 8-10 km off road), 6-7 hours; walk with pack-animals to the Koskulak Base Camp (~ 4500 m), 1-2 hours; (B, L, D)
day 3 – acclimatization and reconnaissance of the area; (B, L, D)
day 4 – acclimatization and reconnaissance of the area; (B, L, D)
day 5 – Base Camp – Camp 1 (~ 5800-5900 m); (B)
day 6 – Camp 1 – Base Camp; (L, D)
day 7 – rest day; (B, L, D)
day 8 – Base Camp – Camp 1; (B)
day 9 – Camp 1 – Camp 2 (~ 6400 m)
day 10 – Camp 2 – Base Camp; (L, D)
day 11 – rest day; (B, L, D)
day 12 – rest day; (B, L, D)
day 13 – Base Camp – Camp 1; (B)
day 14 – Camp 1 – Camp 2
day 15 – Camp 2 – summit of Koskulak Peak (7028 m) – Camp 2
day 16 – Camp 2 – Base Camp; (L, D)
day 17 – reserve day for the bad weather; (B, L, D)
day 18 – reserve day for the bad weather; (B, L, D)
day 19 – walk with pack-animals and then drive to Kashgar; night at the hotel; (B)
day 20 – transfer hotel – airport; departure from Kashgar; (B)

Services and expenses included in the programme price: 
– All necessary permits and formalities for China: invitations for Chinese visas, all necessary fees and charges for Xinjiang including a peak registration fee for Koskulak Peak, an administrative fee, highway and conservation charges, an ecological fee, a payment for a general liaison officer of China Xinjiang Mountaineering Association (CXMA), etc
– Transfers airport – hotel in Kashgar: 2 transfers
– Bus / jeep for the transportation Kashgar – trek start point and back
– Pack-animals for the luggage transportation trek start point – Koskulak Base Camp and back (40 kg of luggage per person)
– Hotel accommodation (single and double rooms) in Kashgar for 2 nights
– Base camp equipment: a big mess tent, tables, stools, a mess kit, gas stoves and a cooking set
– Meals in Kashgar: 2 breakfasts (B)
– Meals at Base Camp: 11 breakfasts (B), 11 lunches (L), 11 dinners (D)
– Chinese cook for cooking in the Base Camp
– Chinese liaison officer-interpreter
– Expedition manager of Fii Activ (optionally)

Comments are closed.